Full instructions with patterns and 3D printable files. This project is a simplified version of a larger concept — the full version is the hammock tent, which allows camping both on the ground and as a suspended hammock.

In this version, we will focus primarily on:

• The sleeping area construction (inner tent)

• Proper ventilation and condensation protection

• Lightweight, durable materials

• An intuitive setup system

• A compact, easy-to-pack form

The design is based on tested solutions and outdoor fabrics that combine lightweight design, weather resistance, and durability. You don’t need pro equipment — just a basic sewing machine, patience, and a curiosity to explore new possibilities.

With these instructions, you will build a modular base that you can expand in the future — adding a suspension system to transform the tent into a full-featured hamako-tent.

We start with the basics — because the best projects grow step by step. And nothing gives as much satisfaction as lying inside a tent you built with your own hands.

Fabrics that make a difference — why I chose these specific fabrics and components.
Designing your own tent isn’t just about shape and structure — selecting the right materials is just as important. For this project, I focused on balancing durability, weight, and functionality, and that’s exactly what guided my choices.

TENT FLOOR – 300D Polyester with PU Coating

The tent floor is the part that works the hardest. It has to withstand moisture, friction, the user’s weight, and contact with both soft forest ground and rough surfaces like rocks or snow.

That’s why I chose 300D PU-coated polyester — a fabric commonly used in outdoor gear. It is:

• Resistant to abrasion and tearing

• Highly waterproof thanks to its polyurethane coating

• Stable across a range of temperatures

• Durable and reliable for use over many seasons

This is a material that won’t let you down in Polish forests, whether in autumn or winter.

INNER TENT – 40D Ripstop Nylon

The inner tent needs to breathe, handle tension, maintain strength, and at the same time be lightweight for easy transport in the field.

40D Ripstop Nylon meets these requirements perfectly:

• Lightweight and compact

• Reinforced with a ripstop grid for durability

• Resistant to damage

• Breathable and moisture-wicking

• Quiet, so it doesn’t rustle at night

It’s the perfect balance between weight and durability.

RAINFLY – 20D SilPoly with PU Coating

The outer layer is the first line of defense against rain, snow, and wind. For this project, the priorities were low weight, high waterproofing, and resistance to stretching when wet.

20D SilPoly PU proved to be an excellent choice. Here’s why:

• The silicone layer repels water and strengthens the fibers

• The polyurethane coating allows for seam taping and sealing

• The fabric doesn’t absorb moisture, so it doesn’t stretch like traditional nylon

• Ultralight yet highly durable

This is the type of material you’ll find in modern ultralight tents — and for good reason.

MOSQUITO NET – 33 g/m² Nylon Mesh

Ventilation and insect protection must go hand in hand. I wanted a material that:

• Is lightweight

• Has fine mesh holes

• Remains flexible

• Doesn’t fray

• Works well with thin fabrics

The chosen nylon mesh performed perfectly in ventilation panels and tent entrances.

Choosing materials for an outdoor project is a combination of technical knowledge and practical experience.

In this case, the most important factors were:

• Low weight

• High resistance to terrain and weather conditions

• Durability for years of use

• Comfort in all seasons

Every fabric and component was selected to ensure the final product provides maximum comfort and safety — whether on an autumn camping trip or in a winter forest.

When you head into the outdoors, your gear should be your ally, not a compromise. That’s why it’s important to understand why we choose specific materials, not just what we choose.

REQUIRED MATERIALS

• 300D Polyester – 2.5 m
• 40D Ripstop Nylon – 3.5 m
• 20D SilPoly with PU coating – 5 m
• 33 g/m² Nylon Mesh – 1 m
• Talia/Tytan Threads
• YKK Coil #5 Zipper – approx. 8 m
• Double-sided YKK #5 Zippers – 6 pcs
• SOWA Stoppers – 2 pcs
• Cotton / Canvas Ribbon, 5 mm wide – 1.5 m
• Cord Ø 2.5 mm – 4 m
• Fiberglass Tent Frame (e.g., Decathlon)
• PET-G Filament / Ordered 3D-printed parts

 

ADDITIONAL TOOLS

• Protractor
• Pins / Clips
• Tailor’s Chalk / Soap Chalk
• Scissors / Fabric Knife

PDF Patterns Download

3D Printable Tent Components

PATTERNS

Working on the HEIM tent is much easier with patterns. They allow you to see the exact proportions and shapes of each component, which makes sewing and assembly far simpler.

Patterns can be made from cardboard, which is a great way to quickly check if everything fits together. This is especially useful if you want to test sizes and fit before cutting into your fabric.

If you’re ready to start sewing right away, the patterns can also be made directly from your chosen fabric. This lets you begin constructing the tent immediately, using precisely reproduced shapes.

With patterns, the entire construction becomes more predictable and easier to manage — helping you avoid mistakes and ensuring the final result matches your planned design exactly.

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

FRAME + CONNECTORS

We’ll start building the tent by preparing the frame. From the purchased tent frame, assemble two long arches following the instructions, each made of 6 sections. The finished arches should be 3 meters long. Then, using a saw, cut the crossbars — two at 43 cm and one at 27 cm.

In the meantime, order or 3D print the connectors (if you have a 3D printer, you can print them yourself). The best filament for these parts is PET-G — it’s very strong but flexible enough to prevent breakage. It’s a good idea to print extra connectors, so in case one gets damaged, replacement takes just a moment.

Once all parts are ready, attach the connectors to the previously cut crossbars. The 3D-printed parts can be lightly sanded and cleaned beforehand. The ends of the crossbars may also need a bit of sanding, as the files are designed for a snug fit so the parts stay in place. If you want to ensure maximum stability, you can apply a small amount of glue inside the connectors.

FLOOR

Using the prepared pattern, transfer the tent floor design onto the 300D polyester fabric. The piece should be a single unit — the floor along with the sides. Using a protractor, mark 20° angles on each side. Remember to add about 1 cm seam allowance, which will make sewing the sides easier (green stripes in the pattern illustration).

For the side walls, also add approximately 2 cm seam allowance on each edge — the total height of the sides should be 20 cm.

The dimensions shown in the pattern illustrations are final target measurements and do not include seam allowances. Areas where allowances should be added are marked with green lines or described in the instructions.

Note: Not all illustrations show the seam allowances, so pay close attention! 🙂

From the leftover fabric, prepare four pieces to serve as sleeves for the tent frame.

1. Cut rectangles measuring 20 cm × 6 cm.

2. Hem one of the shorter edges to prevent fraying and give a neat finish.

3. Fold each rectangle in half along the long edge and sew the open (unhemmed) edge to close the sleeve.

4. At this stage, you can turn the sleeve right-side out before attaching it to the floor. Prepare the sleeves before sewing the tent floor.

When sewing the floor, insert the sleeves before stitching the sides. The sides are sewn inside-out, so the sleeves should be inside the construction during stitching, and will end up on the outside once turned right-side out.

Use a straight stitch to sew each side. Before turning the floor right-side out, you can trim excess fabric in the corners and add a zigzag stitch to secure the edges and achieve a cleaner finish.

If you want to ensure everything stays straight, you can first sew the sleeve to one edge, then attach the two side edges together.

INNER TENT

For the inner tent, it’s a good idea to start by making test patterns from cardboard or a scrap fabric — especially for the side panel labelled B. This lets you check the shape and proportions before cutting into your final material.

To make sure everything lines up nicely, use the assembled frame placed in the tent base to trace the curve directly. A quick reminder from practice: it’s always better to trust what you see and measure in real life than to rely solely on the dimensions listed here. Even small shifts or inaccuracies at this stage can snowball and affect the next steps of the build.

At this stage, it’s also very important to trace the curve from the inside of the frame. The inner tent should be made slightly smaller, so it can be properly tensioned on the frame using hooks.

The hooks, which we previously produce using a 3D printer, should be prepared before moving on to the next steps. Cut the webbing (for example, one of the types recommended in the links, or another with similar specifications) into sections approximately 6 cm long. Thread each piece through the hole in the hook and secure it with a pin.

Next, you can sew together all the components of the A-labelled panels, joining them with French seams. Before connecting the right and left panels, remember to sew in the hooks that will attach the inner tent ceiling to the highest cross pole. You can also add one extra hook facing inward — it works perfectly as a holder for a small light.

The next step is to position the hooks correctly on the ceiling panels. Clip the required number of hooks onto the frame, then pin them in place to the fabric. Once everything is removed from the frame, the hooks will stay exactly where they should be, already fixed to the ceiling.

Next, you can sew together all the components of the A-labelled panels, joining them with French seams. Before connecting the right and left panels, remember to sew in the hooks that will attach the inner tent ceiling to the highest cross pole. You can also add one extra hook facing inward — it works perfectly as a holder for a small light.

The next step is to position the hooks correctly on the ceiling panels. Clip the required number of hooks onto the frame, then pin them in place to the fabric. Once everything is removed from the frame, the hooks will stay exactly where they should be, already fixed to the ceiling.

Another important step is joining the floor to the inner tent body. This is a stage that can be a bit tricky. With the inner tent mounted on the frame, spread it out evenly and then pin or clip both components together. If you want to be sure everything is perfectly aligned, it’s well worth taking the time to baste these two pieces together first. This will make sewing them on the machine much easier and greatly increase your chances of success. At this stage, we also use a French seam.

After sewing, trim away any excess fabric left over from the previous steps. The remaining mesh scraps can be used to make internal pockets, which can be sewn onto the side walls of the floor. If you plan to add pockets, do this only after the floor and inner tent have been joined — only then will you know how much material has been taken up by the seams, as the seam allowance can shrink more than expected. At this point, do not rely on the pattern dimensions; the most important thing is that the inner tent is properly tensioned after sewing.

FLYSHEET

The final element is the flysheet. At this stage, I also recommend making test patterns (I skipped this step and later regretted it!). Use the prepared templates to cut the pieces from your final material. For panels with doors, do not cut all the way through where the zipper will go — it’s not necessary. Leave just a small allowance at the very top.

Prepare the zipper tape in the same way as for the inner tent doors, but remember to secure it on only one side. Sew the zipper in the standard way so that the doors open in two halves. Once the panels are ready, attach them to the ceiling using a French seam.

At this stage, it’s a good idea to sew in internal webbing strips or extra hooks to attach the rainfly to the frame — this will prevent it from slipping during use (I forgot to do this in my own version!). Additionally, sew small loops of webbing or another strong material on each corner and at the ends of the doors. These loops will allow you to peg the rainfly to the ground and properly tension the entrance.

All done! That’s it — your version of HEIM is complete 🙂.

With any leftover material, it’s a great idea to make a storage bag for your tent. The classic drawstring sack works best. You can use leftover elastic from the frame and the cord locks mentioned in the materials. Adjust the bag’s dimensions to fit the tent when it’s rolled up as tightly as possible. You could also make a separate mini cover for the frame. I’d love to see any personal modifications you make to the base HEIM design!

Once your tent is finished, make sure to share your results — tag me (@akurat.design) and Ripstop (@ripstop.pl). I can’t wait to see all your creative versions! 😊